Showing posts with label motorbike. Show all posts
Showing posts with label motorbike. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Same same, but better

     So after about 14 hours of pure rest (with more to follow I'm sure) I'm finally ready to write. Hoi An was really lovely. A tourist trap, yes, but not one that you really care about being in. So you pay $1 instead of $0.50 for food. So there are whitties everywhere and people ask if you want to rent or buy things. Really, compared to what it's like getting out of a train station here this is child's play. The center of town and the surroundings are quaint with some French influence. The place is generally clean and the beach is an easy 20 min ride by bicycle. 

     We stayed in a cute little hotel for around $12 a night. This got us ac, a balcony, western-style shower, wifi, and hot water. A bargain if you ask me. I believe the place was called Phuong Dong, but don't hold me to that. I'll look it up when I get home as I plan on rating all the places I've paid to stay at. It is also worth noting that it is now the low season for tourists here so prices are cheaper and you often get good deals not only on hotels, but tourist attractions as well. 

     We spent time wandering around town, lying around on the beach, and catching up on news back home. The go-go-go portion of the trip is starting to quickly catch up on us and our energy levels are dwindling fast. Not to mention it is hot as crap in the south so the heat of the day really takes it out of you.

     You can also get clothes made here and I got two dresses (one for work and one for play) custom made for very cheap (around $35 total). The quality at the place I used seems legit, and the dress styles aren't too complicated so I can fix them if need be. 

     On the second day I was trolling FB and I saw that one of my close friends from uni posted a picture that looked exactly like the view from the beach I was at earlier that day. It turns out he was in Hoi An with some of his buddies so we met up for the day. It was great to see him, it's been almost three years!

    Him and his buddies showed us some kick ass cheap places to eat. One place sells these amazing thin pancake thingys (not crepes) stuffed with shrimp, been sprouts, and mushrooms. You fold some lettuce in them, wrap them with rice paper and dip them in this sweet and sour sauce. Delicious! We gorged on them our last day before heading to Da Nang for the day.

     Da Nang is a pretty sizable city. The big tourist attractions here consist of uber-luxury resorts that put up huge gates around there properties. This time of year they are literally empty. There is a lot of construction of new uber-resorts which, when the place is empty, seems a bit counter productive. They must make some serious cash though, because they are building more around every corner. We came here for the day for one reason: the Hai Van Pass. It is a canyon road featured in Top Gear (the Vietnam Special...Google it). They did it by motor bike and although I can't quite drive a standard bike, I planned on repeating the journey. 

     Thank goodness we looked at a map when we left the train station because it took us quite some time to find bikes, even just the ocean road. We locked our bags up (not for the faint of heart, the lady literally locks them together and away you go) and left the station. We wandered around until we found a road we recognized and set out to find bikes. We figured, like in Hoi An, there would be a ton of people by the waterfront trying to rent us bikes. This turned out not to be the case and we ended up convincing some hotel to rent us a bike (of course, they said that they wanted us to stay there first). We set out with a general idea of how to get to the pass. The pass is pretty empty these days, as trucks are not allowed on it anymore. Instead they take the tunnel, which doesn't allow motor bikes so you get the picture. We saw a couple of tourist busses, a few tourist cars, and one other couple on bikes aside from locals. The road was AMAZING...read: FABULOUS. They say it is dangerous, which I suppose if it were raining it would be, but I learned to drive on canyon roads, so I felt very comfortable the whole trip. There were more beautiful vistas than I could describe and pictures simply don't do it justice. It was one of those things that was completely worth the effort it took to figure out. Dad, you woulda loved it!

     We went about 3/4 of the way on the road and headed back, as our gas meter wasn't exactly working and I didn't want to risk getting stranded. No worries though, we had trouble anyway. We were almost down the road and we stopped for some water and one last glimpse of the beauty. When we got back to the bike to get it started we had the same problem we had in Bali, the damn starter wasn't working. Luckily for us, we stopped at a view that was a stopping point for most car tours. We got a guide to jump start the bike for us and we continued onwards, making it back with very little trouble. I guess that's what the guy gets for not telling us that the gas meter was broken. 

     We had the rest of the day to kill in Da Nang, which proved to be challenging. It was hotter than ever, we both had parts of us that were sunburnt, I was tired from the drive, and we had about 7 hours to kill. Let's just say you could do this part of the pass with about 5 hours (not 12)...so if you plan on doing it, look it up on Google maps, rent a bike on the beach road to avoid the chaos of the city, and give yourself 6 or 7 hours before your train leaves. We decided to just bounce around from cafe (which means wifi and non-alcoholic drinks...no food) to cafe until we found one that had a good vibe. It turns out it is the one directly across the train station...not something you would expect. This place had a staff around our age working, sold some snacks, and had beer as well so it was a win-win-win. A waiter there sat down and had several conversations with us to practice his english. He was awesome and he was in university to become a tour guide. We enjoyed our various exchanges and he even gave us some free dried shrimp to try (surprisingly good). 
  
   We asked him about good street food and it was the first honest answer we have gotten here. We had fried spring rolls that were then wrapped with lettuce, sprouts and rice paper then dipped in spicy sauce. YUM. After dinner we stocked up on water and snacks for the ten hour train ride to Nha Trang. 

     We've been in Nha Trang for a day and we will be leaving this evening. It's a nice beach town, and we are staying just outside the city, which I would recommend. The beach isn't exactly super clean (although not filthy). If you stay outside of town you can avoid the harassment and see how the locals use the beach (only in the mornings and evenings). We were going to go snorkeling today, as it is supposed to be the best here, but we are running out of money and we haven't slept too well (the lights in the train cabin didn't go off...wtf). Yesterday we went to the hot springs and mud spa. It was a bargain. Round trip and the entrance fee costed us $20 for the both of us. We went around 3pm which was good because the place was emptying out for the day (not that it was too crowded anyway, cuz it's low season). We paid for the shared baths and such, but ended up getting private everything. That was awesome! The mud felt soooo nice and made my skin feel fresh and clean. Much needed after so much sweating and dirty train rides.

     Today we leave at 7pm for Siagon (Ho Chi Minh City). We plan on wandering around the beach areas (even though it's a bit rainy) and getting some food. I'm a bit nervous for Siagon, as it's a huge city and people have said it's  a lot like Hanoi (which I didn't like). However, at least there is more to see there and we will be spending the day in the Mekong Delta. Hopefully we don't run out of money, as we only have a couple hundred between the two of us to get us through Monday afternoon. 

  Time for breakfast! Still missing home and excited to go back to Tahoe in less than a week!

-M

Saturday, August 18, 2012

Where do I put my pee bucket?

     As expected there is never a dull day on this trip. I know it's been a while, and I have written a post about our adventures in Singapore, but it is on my tablet (which doesn't get internet here). We've been in Bali for about 6 days now and it is as amazing as ever. We're staying on the Farm, the same place as last time. Things look slightly different, as the rice paddies are filled with water and growing rice.

     The first day we spent just meandering around the farm and the surrounding properties. It was relaxing and a great break from the hustle and bustle of the cities we had stopped in prior. The sweet smell of the air (a pleasant mix of incense from offerings and farm-y fields) made the smog-stiff air of Hong Kong feel miles away. Bali is amazing like that, even though behind almost every turn (if you know where to go) there is an even more beautiful vista of life at a slower pace, I'm convinced you can enjoy it just as much blind. The sounds of the wind going through the palms reminds me of a gentle summer rain. The feel of the damp earth between my feet and the scruff of Sparky, the most gregarious of the farm dogs, makes me feel right at home.

     I could go on, but I do have quite the story to tell. Our third day here MB and I decided to venture to the Mt. Batur, a place I had been by bus the last time I was here, to enjoy the view and see the lake. I should have known better, but I figured we would avoid the hawking early in the AM. The drive started out amazing. Riding through the hills and forests on a quiet country road (by the standards here, this is a very nice and cleanly paved route). We had the road to ourselves aside from a few daily commuters. Then we hit the first town on the ridge of the mountains. It was beyond crowded. School was getting out for some type of break and people were everywhere. We managed to find the views and only be exposed to minor harassment. The lake was another story. No we don't want to buy your stuff or be ripped off by your services, we just came to see the lake. I wanted to wander around, but I felt extremely un-welcomed if I wasn't to make any purchases. These people currently make a better living than us (we are unemployed). It was obnoxious. We were hesitant to even take the camera out for fear of being pounced on by hawkers and there weren't even that many around yet.

     The day only went downhill from there. I stupidly bought fruit at the top of the hill, without realising that we wouldn't have gotten so badly ripped off if we had just gone a bit down the hill (I didn't know there were stands there too). I was kicking myself half way home because of this. I paid wayyyyyyy too much for some fruit that was a bit old..the lady wouldn't even let me pick it myself! I'm getting upset just thinking about it so I'll change the subject. We were then going to look for a temple (Tampaksiring), got lost on a beautiful stretch of road leading to a village, then couldn't find the place. MB was starving so we gave up our search and headed to Ubud for some eats. I specifically remember getting lost on this road the last time I biked through and this time was no exception.

     I took a turn too early and ended up on a road that I didn't know. Stupid me thought that I would just turn around. However, U-turns are not my forte on a bike so I did what I had been doing all trip, pulling into a driveway, make MB dismount, and turn the bike around. I didn't make it very far in this process. You see, there was this thin patch of gravel (about a foot wide) between me and the most enormous, empty, tourist-bus size lot. The lot was on a hill so I had my hands on the break as I pulled in. Mistake number one. Down went me and down went MB and the bike on top. The bike was fine, MB was a bit banged up, I was in even worse shape. We only hit the ground doing about 5mph, but that's all it took for a nice scraping of the left side of my body. Once again, I was more pissed than anything because I was doing so much not to put MB in a position where this would have happened. He now refuses to get on the bike (smart move on his part haha).

     You would hope the story would just end there, but no, it didn't. We lick our wounds after receiving some iodine from some helpful guys at a woodcarving workshop across the street and head into central Ubud to try to find this place I wanted MB to try. We get going down the right road, park our bike, and head to where I thought the restaurant was located. After finding out I was about 4km short of where I wanted to be we tried to get back on the bike and get going. Now remember, the bike started and ran after we fell, but this time it was as dead as a doorknob. We tried and tried and then attracted a crowd of guys trying to get it started, but no go. The starter had came loose and the bike simply needed to be taken in. We phoned the farm and waited while the guys still tried to jump start the bike. Once the mechanic arrived and came to the same conclusion I had guessed all along about 20 mins later we stood up to leave and walk to some food. MB didn't realise that I had put the phone we were using (which was borrowed) in his helmut and I didn't realise that it was his helmut either. The helmut went up, and the phone went into a pond that was right next to us. The phone was pretty much gone by then. We did what all people would do, take out the battery and blow in it. At this point I was cursing the skies for this series of obnoxious events. One of the guys huddled around the bike told us to go up this steep hill to the market and said they would be able to fix it there. So off we hustled up the hill only to find out that the guy didn't have a blowdryer or the tools to open the phone, but, fear not, all the way back to the center of town (a casual 30min walk) there was a guy who could do it. Brilliant. Sweating and feeling completely helpless we began trudging back down the hill and through town. About half way there the mechanic showed up on the bike and told us it was ok to ride. This was all after a massive mis-communication in which I thought the bike would only work in standard. I have never driven standard and was not about to learn on a motorbike in the middle of Indonesia. Thankfully this turned out not to be the case. We, or more appropriately me, decided to call it a day and head back to the farm because we had no way of getting in touch with our hosts, who were on their way to Ubud to meet us.

     After this whole ordeal we were both exhausted, tired, in pain, and a little fearful that we would not find our hosts on the road. Fortunately they found us and after exchanging stories we agreed to meet back at the farm later. On the way home I stopped at an Indomart to pick up some beer and maybe find a stain remover to get the blood out of my shirt and shorts. We didn't find any stain remover (it turns out that dishwashing detergent and cold water do just fine). But we did find beers and ice cream. So MB and I sat on a few bricks outside of the minimart by the roadside accepting our defeat over some much deserved ice cream bars. We laughed it off as best we could. We are on a six week journey through some tough to negotiate parts of the world. Accidents, in one form or another are bound to happen. Plus, I am convinced bad things come in threes so there wasn't much more that could have happened that day.

     Bad days happen. Without them how would you know what a good day is anyway? I still love Bali just the same, although I dream of being able to through rotten fruit at that lady on the top of the mountain. We were supposed to leave today for Bromo in east Java, but MB's eyes have been bothering him a lot and he didn't want to risk exposing them to the sulfur-ridden peak of Bromo. No biggy, we saw it from the air which is probably prettier than seeing it from the ground anyway. Instead we are heading to Surabaya for a day, then onwards to Yogya.

I'll post on Singapore later.

Family and friends we miss you dearly! Someone give Nina kisses for us!

-M