We are finally back on some type of normal schedule. Our current HQ is at my folk's house in Tahoe and we've been here for about a week. Aside from re-teaching our bodies the difference between night and day, we've also been trolling the internet for a place to live back in Denver. I had figured we would be getting ready to leave for good at this point, but alas, a buyer's market means us renters have to put in some extra hours in the housing hunt. We'll be visiting Denver to look at places mid next week. Aside from mission-housing, I came down with a mild cold. Sweet...
The initial culture shock wasn't anything to write home about. I don't really think we were gone long enough, or the 24hrs of layovers in a comparatively tame Singapore and Hong Kong made the transition back to the west a bit easier. Either that or I'm just not fazed by anything anymore.
Before I get into the meat of this post, I'd like to give some monetary logistics out there for anyone who may be following this blog and plans on doing a similar trip. All in all, from leaving Tahoe to arriving back 43 days later the trip costed around $3K USD. Airfare was a significant chunk, taking up about 2/3 of the cost. Almost 1/3 of that was the trans-world flight. Food, lodging, activities, overland transport, drinking, and shopping cost around $1250 USD each for 6 weeks. We splurged minimally, and in comparison to US prices, didn't splurge at all. In terms of lodging, we didn't stay in complete shit holes or shared dorms (usually between $10-15), but we never paid over $30 a night either (and $30 was expensive!). Keep in mind that this route involved a significant amount of island hopping where 99% of the time a ferry was simply unavailable or completely un-economical in terms of time. If we had stuck to the more traditional overland routes (ie gone to Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Singapore, Vietnam, Peninsular Malaysia) the cost could have been lower. However, the other factor that kept us using flights is time. It takes a LOT of time to get around in some of these places, especially if roads aren't in the best condition or if it's anywhere close to monsoon season. For example, the route from Denpasar, Bali to Jogjakarta, Indonesia is roughly 370 miles. Tack on a few more if you just look at roads, so to be fair let's say 450 miles. This is about 90 miles over the distance between where I used to live in Los Angeles and where my parents live in Lake Tahoe. That journey, let's say on a snowy day where there is road trouble, can take anywhere between 10 to 12 hours. In Indonesia that distance takes about 24 hours of actual travel time (excluding overnights and 'layovers'). Keep in mind that Bali doesn't have awful roads, and Java's roads and train systems are significantly better than one would expect. The difference is the speed limit, public transport's affinity for countless stops, and never really running on any type of schedule that makes travel particularly difficult. If you have the money or are sick of 'adventure,' just book a tourist bus between places as they tend to stop less, but keep in mind you will be overcharged way over 200% of what it could cost, which, over time, will add up quickly.
So let's get on with it...here is yet another list post on the highlights...and not-my-favorite moments of the trip...after the break of course!
Top 3 Favorite Meals:
1. Singapore Crab Feast: It was tough to beat number 2...and this meal actually may spark a lot of controversy among those heavily involved in the Kuala Lumpur vs. Singapore food-off, but I had to put it first. I have NEVER IN MY LIFE seen crab claws that were nearly the size of my hand. It was awesome, R, thank your dad please! The cost of this meal is unknown, as we were treated by our friend's dad, but my guess is it would not fit a backpacker's budget but damn worth every freaking Sing Dollar. Ask anyone in Singapore where the seafood mall (yes, an entire strip mall dedicated to seafood restaurants) near the airport is and they will show you the way. Find the place that has the subtitle: 'Home of the Pepper Crab' and grab a table. Chili and Pepper crab is a must. So is pretty much anything else on the menu.
2.
Kuala Lumpur Banana Leaf: This should come as no surprise to those who know me, I swear by this stuff. It is a meal I would easily fly across the world just to eat off of a banana leaf with my hands. There are several banana leaf places all over KL and Malaysia, but the most well-known, and arguably the best, is Nirwana in the Bangsar neighborhood. Any true Malaysian will have heard of this joint. It's the best bang for your buck. Always ask for extra fried bitter gourd when the stuff comes out...these make curly fries look like amateur hour. The meal won't hurt your wallet either.
3. Seafood in Sai Kon: I hesitate to put this on here because it is a hidden gem in Hong Kong. It is a small fishing village (more like a town) where you pick your food from a tank, tell them how to cook it and enjoy it on the water in a quieter corner of Hong Kong. It's pricier, but so is Hong Kong. Shop around, as prices vary and some of the places closest to the pier seemed a bit tourist trappy. Pick a place that is occupied and seems reasonable.
Top 3 Nastiest Foods We Tried:
 |
| Splashes of Red! |
1. Vietnamese Dog's Blood: This is hands down the nastiest thing I have ever tried and once, when I was little, I thought that wall insulation was cotton candy. I also mistook a water bottle full of syrup (don't ask, my family is weird) for a water bottle I had previously filled with Coke. That still doesn't even compare to the gag reflex I still get when thinking about eating this. I'll spare you the descriptive details of our the warm, semi-coagulated, irony goo and crunchy mix of peanut and bone felt going down the hatch. However, keep in mind that dog is a delicacy in Vietnam, it probably won't be fed to tourists because it's not cheap. This dish in particular is not something we ever saw on the streets. If you're still concerned, learn the word for dog meat and don't order it. Dog is also more common in the north than in the south, so keep that in mind when traveling.
2.
Baby Duck (Vietnam): Sounds like it would be good right? I mean I like duck, and although PETA might not agree, let's face it: baby animals taste better. Don't be fooled my friend! This dish is incorrectly translated. What a Vietnamese person really means when they say this is
boiled duck fetus. Yes, you get a nicely boiled duck fetus. Think large hard boiled egg that is nearly fully formed. They love this shit and I can't see why. It's supposed to be good for your health, but I can't see how beak, bones, feathers, and whatever else can really improve your health. The yolk isn't too bad, and I just tried to avoid the nasty bits when trying it, but MB got a mouth full of beak and feathers and couldn't finish. I guess one could develop a taste for this dish over time, but why?
3. Satay Cow Skin (Indonesia): Now this one came as a surprise to me. I wanted to like this snack. In fact, out of all the satay we ordered in Jogja I thought this would be my favorite (it turns out the snails and intestine are better). The skin came with its layer of fat, which was some-what detrimental. The fat is thick, slimy, and rubbery. The skin itself was also nothing to write home about, hairs were usually burned off, but sometimes not all was removed. Overall, and no offense my Halal friends, stick to pig skin.
10 'Weird' Foods We Tried that Surprised Us:
Weird is a relative term and some of these foods aren't even that weird to me, but are to the average western (American) palette. Granted, some of these are pretty...well...strange...
1. Kopi Joss (Indonesia): Now I put this one first for the sole reason that I never expected it, never knew about it, and never thought it would actually taste good. It is a simple drink of coffee (Kopi) with condensed milk and sugar all mixed up. Seems normal right? Wrong, the 'joss' is what made me turn my head sideways. The drink is poured over a hot lump of coal. Yes, that's right, I said coal. Ironically, the best place to get this drink is right by the train station. It tastes really good, although I find it hard to believe it's good for you. No you don't eat the coal, but you do get some residue and small chunks in your coffee that inevitably end up in your mouth. I don't think this will ever catch on in the states, seeing as we power our country with the stuff.
2. Fish Stomach (China): I know the Chinese use a lot of fish stomach in their dishes so it didn't surprise me too much when I tried it at a Hong Kong dim sum joint. The surprise (other than I liked it) came when I didn't recognize it. Honestly it looks nothing like a stomach, but instead more like a spongy, random Chinese mushroom of sorts. It's good and picks up flavor well.
3. The Century Egg, 1,000 year old egg (China, Singapore, Malaysia, the list goes on): The names continue. It's a Chinese classic and is almost what it says it is. It's boiled then fermented underground for some time and it comes out all green and stuff. MB likes it. I think it's a bit weird, but I'm not too keen on the texture. If it scares you alone, it often comes in things and is worth a try.
4. Intestines (everywhere): Intestines aren't too surprising, however they aren't often featured menu items in America, with the exception of sausage casings. Many famous foodies say it's a texture thing for us Americans but I am a texture freak when it comes to food (meaning I'm picky about it) especially things you have to chew forever and I found this not to be the case with all the intestines I ate. They are a little chewy, but not like overcooked steak tips or a rubber band. They are usually well seasoned, grilled, or are left to simmer in a soup all day. The end result is yummy!
5. Gudeg (Indonesia): Stewed Jackfruit. The dish itself kind of resembles vomit and you can't quite see how the fruit gets that gnarly color or how it would taste good with sambal and rice. It is awesome, amazing actually. If you go to Indo, or more specifically, the dish's home island of Java, this is a MUST TRY.
6. Su'a is Vietnamese for Jellyfish: I learned this the hard way. I saw the word and unlike the other things on this street-side vendor's stall I didn't know what it meant. When I got my meal, a fish soup with all the typical Vietnamese add-ins I immediately noticed these little noodle-like tentacles in my bowl. The lady who served me pointed and said, su'a. Then, in typical Asian fashion, proceeded to watch me eat it to see my reaction. It's pretty tasteless and is a little chewy with a sandpaper texture on one side. Not bad in a soup, but not great either. The lady at our hotel told us it is a specialty of the Nha Trang region, so if you're ever in town and curious, give it a try.
7. Duck's feet (Hong Kong): Another accidental pickup that I was curious about anyway at dim sum. It's tasty, just watch out for the bones! Lots of yummy fat and cartilage to gnaw on
8. Durian (South East Asia's favorite fruit): Durian isn't that weird to me. The fruit itself is ok, not bad but not great. Most westerners hate it. I personally prefer durian flavored things to actual durian. The texture is like a stringy custard, which is ok to deal with, but the smell is something to behold. Occasionally the Asian markets in the states get durian, but don't be fooled, this is durian for bitches. It doesn't smell; and according to durian experts, like cheese, the smellier the better. The smell doesn't bother me too much on the street, but up close and personal, it's not my favorite. MB tried durian pudding with chunks of durian in it and liked it, but I wouldn't go near his face for like 12 hours. It smells of moldy feet and a New York City gutter in the early AM of a Sunday morning. Yummy.
9. Rice Paddy Eel (Indonesia): Deep fried and left to dry this little eel doesn't retain much flavor, but it's slim, small, and black appearance isn't very eel like. It's pretty oily. I'd like to try a fresh one some day. Weird, but you could eat it.
10. Ground, Fermented Pork (Vietnam): It sounds like rancid meat, but is in fact, quite the opposite. These guys usually come deep fried and with toothpicks, kind of like a cocktail weenie. The fried crispyness is amazing and the fermentation leaves the pork fluffy and airy. It tastes just like pork, I couldn't really tell the difference. I think the name is Nam Ram (pronounced Nam Zam) but don't hold me to it. The fried awesomeness is served with a spicy sauce, making it a perfect street food snack.
7 Addicting Foods and Meals:
The following are things we just couldn't EVER get enough of...I will also include our coveted nick-names for such foods if they acquired one.
1. 100 Plus/Pocari Sweat/Revive/Gatorade AKA Crack Juice: In the hot and humid climates of SEA isotonic drinks become a lifestyle. It seemed as though ever country had it's own preferred beverage and to be honest Gatorade was our least favorite of the bunch. Another item that could easily be popular in the US. Whenever we were tired from walking around in the constant heat, or I could just not replace fluids fast enough due to my newly discovered ability to sweat constantly (sexy I know) we would just find a roadside stall, perch up on an overly small kiddy stool, and pound down some crack juice.
2. Longan/Klangkang/Not too sure what other names they go by AKA Crack Berries: See a theme here? These berries run rampant in SEA and they are delicious. Usually purchased by the kilo due to our ability to start eating them, and then never stop. Mangosteens were a close second to these.
3. Kolop Mee (Malaysian Borneo) AKA Crack Noodles: Words can't describe this one other than grilled pork with ground pork on top of noodles tossed in pork lard. I would have sent it home if I could.
4. Laksa...not just any Laksa but Sarawak Laksa (Malaysian Borneo): Why this does not exist in America is beyond me (much like no. 3 I forgot to mention). A fish based broth with loads of awesomeness, spices, ugh, just trying to write about it makes me hungary. I may just pay someone to make me laksa every day once I win the lottery. This folks, is another dish I would travel vast distances to eat on the side of the street.
5. Bahn Mi (Vietnam): I can't tell you how many different kinds or how much of this street snack we consumed. The Vietnamese take on the baguette. Usually had some type of green, pate, pork sausage or slivers of meat, and spicy fish sauce. Delicious and usually only costed around 75 cents.
6. Bahn Xeo (Vietnam): Literally meaning 'sizzle crepes' these pancakes of awesomeness are too good to pass up. Usually folded over and fried with sprouts and prawns. Eaten with fresh basil, and lettuce, wrapped in rice paper, and then dipped in a sweet and sour sauce. Be sure to wash down with a Revive if needed.
7. Local Beer and or Booze: Whenever you eat something suspect, or whenever the chaos of travel brings you to your knees you can be sure to grab whatever local alcoholic beverage is available and feel at ease. Bai Ha Noi, 333, Bia Saigon, Bierre Laurue, or the 5 cent draft or 'Fresh' beer are some of our favorites in Vietnam. Bali Hai beats Bintang any day, but in Indo your options are limited so Bintang often the best choice. Forget Tiger (which is often the same price as a Heini anyway) in Malaysia and go for some of the REAL jungle juice, Borneo's own moonshine variety Tuak. Unfortunately, you have to know someone to get any, but if you come across some, don't ask the alcohol content as it isn't really known. Beware, that stuff creeps up on you like it's nobody's business. Luak is another favorite and it is the Malaysian version of rice whiskey. Another warning: this exists all over Asia and it is referred to as Rice Wine...there is nothing Wine about this rocket fuel.
Top 3 Best Places We Stayed:
Last but not least (my hands are getting tired) is the list of the places that we absolutely loved staying at (and paid to do so). The first two I would recommend to ANYONE traveling to those areas. The hospitality we received blew us away, in fact, they are two of the best places I have ever stayed (within a budget) in all of my travels.
1. Long Hostel in Ho Chi Minh City: The Long family is absolutely amazing. Tucked away in one of the many alleys in the backpacker district I would recommend anyone of any means making it a point to stay here. The rooms are spotless and cleaned every day (including fresh towels!). The AC is on point, it's relatively quiet and the price includes a delicious home-cooked breakfast that changes every day. When you stay here, you truly feel like family. Mrs. Long is like your mom in a far away city. She will give you a great orientation on the city, what to be aware of, what cabs to take, where it is safe to eat on the street (that also gives you the same price as locals), and how to get anywhere. Not to mention she insists that if you have ANY problems whatsoever she will help you. Hangover? She'll make you a drink. Sick? She'll brew up some tea. Advice? Stories? Questions? Concerns? Mrs. Long and her family will take care of you. You also get to meet fellow travelers at breakfast time which is a perk for someone traveling in small groups or alone that wants to branch out. They even offer large water bottles for 25 cents. The cheapest we ever saw it in Vietnam.
2. Singgahsana Lodge in Kuching, Malaysian Borneo: This is one of the coolest hostels I've ever encountered. Rooms are kept clean, AC is available, even the shared bathrooms were pretty spotless (aside from rotting wood doors in the showers, but it wasn't gross, just what happens when wood stays wet). All the rooms (we stayed in two) are painted and decorated with Borneo in mind. The rooftop bar/lounge has a true backpacker feel and is the perfect place to enjoy a beer after a long day. The reception area has tons of resources and things to help out a wary traveler. What really makes this place extra special is the staff. They are friendly and helpful. They don't just treat you like a customer but they engage with you and actually make an effort to get to know you. Mac is the best and he will always give great advice on places to eat (it is Malaysia after all). The tour place downstairs, although it seems a bit pricey, is actually on par or cheaper than other tours we saw around the city. We didn't do any, except for the trip to the orangutang sanctuary and it was reasonably priced for a ride there and back as well as a ticket. Expect honest advice here and great hospitality.
3. Phuong Duong Hotel in Hoi An: We loved this place because of it's charm and location. For $12 US you get an AC, fan, fridge, and western bathroom (ie tub...which is a nice break from the toilet shower). Our room even had a balcony. It was clean, bright, and extremely charming, adding to that fuzzy feeling Hoi An already gives you. Rentals and services from the hotel were reasonable and fair although there was a loss in translation over train tickets (be sure to say shared cabin, not shared room, but this goes for anywhere in Vietnam). It isn't in the center of town (translation: quiet night's sleep), but a short walk will get you there and you don't mind doing it because it is so pretty.
Well my fingers are beat and I'm sure you're sick of reading! So until next time...
-M
We are finally back on some type of normal schedule. Our current HQ is at my folk's house in Tahoe and we've been here for about a week. Aside from re-teaching our bodies the difference between night and day, we've also been trolling the internet for a place to live back in Denver. I had figured we would be getting ready to leave for good at this point, but alas, a buyer's market means us renters have to put in some extra hours in the housing hunt. We'll be visiting Denver to look at places mid next week. Aside from mission-housing, I came down with a mild cold. Sweet...
The initial culture shock wasn't anything to write home about. I don't really think we were gone long enough, or the 24hrs of layovers in a comparatively tame Singapore and Hong Kong made the transition back to the west a bit easier. Either that or I'm just not fazed by anything anymore.
Before I get into the meat of this post, I'd like to give some monetary logistics out there for anyone who may be following this blog and plans on doing a similar trip. All in all, from leaving Tahoe to arriving back 43 days later the trip costed around $3K USD. Airfare was a significant chunk, taking up about 2/3 of the cost. Almost 1/3 of that was the trans-world flight. Food, lodging, activities, overland transport, drinking, and shopping cost around $1250 USD each for 6 weeks. We splurged minimally, and in comparison to US prices, didn't splurge at all. In terms of lodging, we didn't stay in complete shit holes or shared dorms (usually between $10-15), but we never paid over $30 a night either (and $30 was expensive!). Keep in mind that this route involved a significant amount of island hopping where 99% of the time a ferry was simply unavailable or completely un-economical in terms of time. If we had stuck to the more traditional overland routes (ie gone to Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Singapore, Vietnam, Peninsular Malaysia) the cost could have been lower. However, the other factor that kept us using flights is time. It takes a LOT of time to get around in some of these places, especially if roads aren't in the best condition or if it's anywhere close to monsoon season. For example, the route from Denpasar, Bali to Jogjakarta, Indonesia is roughly 370 miles. Tack on a few more if you just look at roads, so to be fair let's say 450 miles. This is about 90 miles over the distance between where I used to live in Los Angeles and where my parents live in Lake Tahoe. That journey, let's say on a snowy day where there is road trouble, can take anywhere between 10 to 12 hours. In Indonesia that distance takes about 24 hours of actual travel time (excluding overnights and 'layovers'). Keep in mind that Bali doesn't have awful roads, and Java's roads and train systems are significantly better than one would expect. The difference is the speed limit, public transport's affinity for countless stops, and never really running on any type of schedule that makes travel particularly difficult. If you have the money or are sick of 'adventure,' just book a tourist bus between places as they tend to stop less, but keep in mind you will be overcharged way over 200% of what it could cost, which, over time, will add up quickly.
So let's get on with it...here is yet another list post on the highlights...and not-my-favorite moments of the trip...after the break of course!
Top 3 Favorite Meals:
1. Singapore Crab Feast: It was tough to beat number 2...and this meal actually may spark a lot of controversy among those heavily involved in the Kuala Lumpur vs. Singapore food-off, but I had to put it first. I have NEVER IN MY LIFE seen crab claws that were nearly the size of my hand. It was awesome, R, thank your dad please! The cost of this meal is unknown, as we were treated by our friend's dad, but my guess is it would not fit a backpacker's budget but damn worth every freaking Sing Dollar. Ask anyone in Singapore where the seafood mall (yes, an entire strip mall dedicated to seafood restaurants) near the airport is and they will show you the way. Find the place that has the subtitle: 'Home of the Pepper Crab' and grab a table. Chili and Pepper crab is a must. So is pretty much anything else on the menu.
2.
Kuala Lumpur Banana Leaf: This should come as no surprise to those who know me, I swear by this stuff. It is a meal I would easily fly across the world just to eat off of a banana leaf with my hands. There are several banana leaf places all over KL and Malaysia, but the most well-known, and arguably the best, is Nirwana in the Bangsar neighborhood. Any true Malaysian will have heard of this joint. It's the best bang for your buck. Always ask for extra fried bitter gourd when the stuff comes out...these make curly fries look like amateur hour. The meal won't hurt your wallet either.
3. Seafood in Sai Kon: I hesitate to put this on here because it is a hidden gem in Hong Kong. It is a small fishing village (more like a town) where you pick your food from a tank, tell them how to cook it and enjoy it on the water in a quieter corner of Hong Kong. It's pricier, but so is Hong Kong. Shop around, as prices vary and some of the places closest to the pier seemed a bit tourist trappy. Pick a place that is occupied and seems reasonable.
Top 3 Nastiest Foods We Tried:
|
| Splashes of Red! |
1. Vietnamese Dog's Blood: This is hands down the nastiest thing I have ever tried and once, when I was little, I thought that wall insulation was cotton candy. I also mistook a water bottle full of syrup (don't ask, my family is weird) for a water bottle I had previously filled with Coke. That still doesn't even compare to the gag reflex I still get when thinking about eating this. I'll spare you the descriptive details of our the warm, semi-coagulated, irony goo and crunchy mix of peanut and bone felt going down the hatch. However, keep in mind that dog is a delicacy in Vietnam, it probably won't be fed to tourists because it's not cheap. This dish in particular is not something we ever saw on the streets. If you're still concerned, learn the word for dog meat and don't order it. Dog is also more common in the north than in the south, so keep that in mind when traveling.
2.
Baby Duck (Vietnam): Sounds like it would be good right? I mean I like duck, and although PETA might not agree, let's face it: baby animals taste better. Don't be fooled my friend! This dish is incorrectly translated. What a Vietnamese person really means when they say this is
boiled duck fetus. Yes, you get a nicely boiled duck fetus. Think large hard boiled egg that is nearly fully formed. They love this shit and I can't see why. It's supposed to be good for your health, but I can't see how beak, bones, feathers, and whatever else can really improve your health. The yolk isn't too bad, and I just tried to avoid the nasty bits when trying it, but MB got a mouth full of beak and feathers and couldn't finish. I guess one could develop a taste for this dish over time, but why?
3. Satay Cow Skin (Indonesia): Now this one came as a surprise to me. I wanted to like this snack. In fact, out of all the satay we ordered in Jogja I thought this would be my favorite (it turns out the snails and intestine are better). The skin came with its layer of fat, which was some-what detrimental. The fat is thick, slimy, and rubbery. The skin itself was also nothing to write home about, hairs were usually burned off, but sometimes not all was removed. Overall, and no offense my Halal friends, stick to pig skin.
10 'Weird' Foods We Tried that Surprised Us:
Weird is a relative term and some of these foods aren't even that weird to me, but are to the average western (American) palette. Granted, some of these are pretty...well...strange...
1. Kopi Joss (Indonesia): Now I put this one first for the sole reason that I never expected it, never knew about it, and never thought it would actually taste good. It is a simple drink of coffee (Kopi) with condensed milk and sugar all mixed up. Seems normal right? Wrong, the 'joss' is what made me turn my head sideways. The drink is poured over a hot lump of coal. Yes, that's right, I said coal. Ironically, the best place to get this drink is right by the train station. It tastes really good, although I find it hard to believe it's good for you. No you don't eat the coal, but you do get some residue and small chunks in your coffee that inevitably end up in your mouth. I don't think this will ever catch on in the states, seeing as we power our country with the stuff.
2. Fish Stomach (China): I know the Chinese use a lot of fish stomach in their dishes so it didn't surprise me too much when I tried it at a Hong Kong dim sum joint. The surprise (other than I liked it) came when I didn't recognize it. Honestly it looks nothing like a stomach, but instead more like a spongy, random Chinese mushroom of sorts. It's good and picks up flavor well.
3. The Century Egg, 1,000 year old egg (China, Singapore, Malaysia, the list goes on): The names continue. It's a Chinese classic and is almost what it says it is. It's boiled then fermented underground for some time and it comes out all green and stuff. MB likes it. I think it's a bit weird, but I'm not too keen on the texture. If it scares you alone, it often comes in things and is worth a try.
4. Intestines (everywhere): Intestines aren't too surprising, however they aren't often featured menu items in America, with the exception of sausage casings. Many famous foodies say it's a texture thing for us Americans but I am a texture freak when it comes to food (meaning I'm picky about it) especially things you have to chew forever and I found this not to be the case with all the intestines I ate. They are a little chewy, but not like overcooked steak tips or a rubber band. They are usually well seasoned, grilled, or are left to simmer in a soup all day. The end result is yummy!
5. Gudeg (Indonesia): Stewed Jackfruit. The dish itself kind of resembles vomit and you can't quite see how the fruit gets that gnarly color or how it would taste good with sambal and rice. It is awesome, amazing actually. If you go to Indo, or more specifically, the dish's home island of Java, this is a MUST TRY.
6. Su'a is Vietnamese for Jellyfish: I learned this the hard way. I saw the word and unlike the other things on this street-side vendor's stall I didn't know what it meant. When I got my meal, a fish soup with all the typical Vietnamese add-ins I immediately noticed these little noodle-like tentacles in my bowl. The lady who served me pointed and said, su'a. Then, in typical Asian fashion, proceeded to watch me eat it to see my reaction. It's pretty tasteless and is a little chewy with a sandpaper texture on one side. Not bad in a soup, but not great either. The lady at our hotel told us it is a specialty of the Nha Trang region, so if you're ever in town and curious, give it a try.
7. Duck's feet (Hong Kong): Another accidental pickup that I was curious about anyway at dim sum. It's tasty, just watch out for the bones! Lots of yummy fat and cartilage to gnaw on
8. Durian (South East Asia's favorite fruit): Durian isn't that weird to me. The fruit itself is ok, not bad but not great. Most westerners hate it. I personally prefer durian flavored things to actual durian. The texture is like a stringy custard, which is ok to deal with, but the smell is something to behold. Occasionally the Asian markets in the states get durian, but don't be fooled, this is durian for bitches. It doesn't smell; and according to durian experts, like cheese, the smellier the better. The smell doesn't bother me too much on the street, but up close and personal, it's not my favorite. MB tried durian pudding with chunks of durian in it and liked it, but I wouldn't go near his face for like 12 hours. It smells of moldy feet and a New York City gutter in the early AM of a Sunday morning. Yummy.
9. Rice Paddy Eel (Indonesia): Deep fried and left to dry this little eel doesn't retain much flavor, but it's slim, small, and black appearance isn't very eel like. It's pretty oily. I'd like to try a fresh one some day. Weird, but you could eat it.
10. Ground, Fermented Pork (Vietnam): It sounds like rancid meat, but is in fact, quite the opposite. These guys usually come deep fried and with toothpicks, kind of like a cocktail weenie. The fried crispyness is amazing and the fermentation leaves the pork fluffy and airy. It tastes just like pork, I couldn't really tell the difference. I think the name is Nam Ram (pronounced Nam Zam) but don't hold me to it. The fried awesomeness is served with a spicy sauce, making it a perfect street food snack.
7 Addicting Foods and Meals:
The following are things we just couldn't EVER get enough of...I will also include our coveted nick-names for such foods if they acquired one.
1. 100 Plus/Pocari Sweat/Revive/Gatorade AKA Crack Juice: In the hot and humid climates of SEA isotonic drinks become a lifestyle. It seemed as though ever country had it's own preferred beverage and to be honest Gatorade was our least favorite of the bunch. Another item that could easily be popular in the US. Whenever we were tired from walking around in the constant heat, or I could just not replace fluids fast enough due to my newly discovered ability to sweat constantly (sexy I know) we would just find a roadside stall, perch up on an overly small kiddy stool, and pound down some crack juice.
2. Longan/Klangkang/Not too sure what other names they go by AKA Crack Berries: See a theme here? These berries run rampant in SEA and they are delicious. Usually purchased by the kilo due to our ability to start eating them, and then never stop. Mangosteens were a close second to these.
3. Kolop Mee (Malaysian Borneo) AKA Crack Noodles: Words can't describe this one other than grilled pork with ground pork on top of noodles tossed in pork lard. I would have sent it home if I could.
4. Laksa...not just any Laksa but Sarawak Laksa (Malaysian Borneo): Why this does not exist in America is beyond me (much like no. 3 I forgot to mention). A fish based broth with loads of awesomeness, spices, ugh, just trying to write about it makes me hungary. I may just pay someone to make me laksa every day once I win the lottery. This folks, is another dish I would travel vast distances to eat on the side of the street.
5. Bahn Mi (Vietnam): I can't tell you how many different kinds or how much of this street snack we consumed. The Vietnamese take on the baguette. Usually had some type of green, pate, pork sausage or slivers of meat, and spicy fish sauce. Delicious and usually only costed around 75 cents.
6. Bahn Xeo (Vietnam): Literally meaning 'sizzle crepes' these pancakes of awesomeness are too good to pass up. Usually folded over and fried with sprouts and prawns. Eaten with fresh basil, and lettuce, wrapped in rice paper, and then dipped in a sweet and sour sauce. Be sure to wash down with a Revive if needed.
7. Local Beer and or Booze: Whenever you eat something suspect, or whenever the chaos of travel brings you to your knees you can be sure to grab whatever local alcoholic beverage is available and feel at ease. Bai Ha Noi, 333, Bia Saigon, Bierre Laurue, or the 5 cent draft or 'Fresh' beer are some of our favorites in Vietnam. Bali Hai beats Bintang any day, but in Indo your options are limited so Bintang often the best choice. Forget Tiger (which is often the same price as a Heini anyway) in Malaysia and go for some of the REAL jungle juice, Borneo's own moonshine variety Tuak. Unfortunately, you have to know someone to get any, but if you come across some, don't ask the alcohol content as it isn't really known. Beware, that stuff creeps up on you like it's nobody's business. Luak is another favorite and it is the Malaysian version of rice whiskey. Another warning: this exists all over Asia and it is referred to as Rice Wine...there is nothing Wine about this rocket fuel.
Top 3 Best Places We Stayed:
Last but not least (my hands are getting tired) is the list of the places that we absolutely loved staying at (and paid to do so). The first two I would recommend to ANYONE traveling to those areas. The hospitality we received blew us away, in fact, they are two of the best places I have ever stayed (within a budget) in all of my travels.
1. Long Hostel in Ho Chi Minh City: The Long family is absolutely amazing. Tucked away in one of the many alleys in the backpacker district I would recommend anyone of any means making it a point to stay here. The rooms are spotless and cleaned every day (including fresh towels!). The AC is on point, it's relatively quiet and the price includes a delicious home-cooked breakfast that changes every day. When you stay here, you truly feel like family. Mrs. Long is like your mom in a far away city. She will give you a great orientation on the city, what to be aware of, what cabs to take, where it is safe to eat on the street (that also gives you the same price as locals), and how to get anywhere. Not to mention she insists that if you have ANY problems whatsoever she will help you. Hangover? She'll make you a drink. Sick? She'll brew up some tea. Advice? Stories? Questions? Concerns? Mrs. Long and her family will take care of you. You also get to meet fellow travelers at breakfast time which is a perk for someone traveling in small groups or alone that wants to branch out. They even offer large water bottles for 25 cents. The cheapest we ever saw it in Vietnam.
2. Singgahsana Lodge in Kuching, Malaysian Borneo: This is one of the coolest hostels I've ever encountered. Rooms are kept clean, AC is available, even the shared bathrooms were pretty spotless (aside from rotting wood doors in the showers, but it wasn't gross, just what happens when wood stays wet). All the rooms (we stayed in two) are painted and decorated with Borneo in mind. The rooftop bar/lounge has a true backpacker feel and is the perfect place to enjoy a beer after a long day. The reception area has tons of resources and things to help out a wary traveler. What really makes this place extra special is the staff. They are friendly and helpful. They don't just treat you like a customer but they engage with you and actually make an effort to get to know you. Mac is the best and he will always give great advice on places to eat (it is Malaysia after all). The tour place downstairs, although it seems a bit pricey, is actually on par or cheaper than other tours we saw around the city. We didn't do any, except for the trip to the orangutang sanctuary and it was reasonably priced for a ride there and back as well as a ticket. Expect honest advice here and great hospitality.
3. Phuong Duong Hotel in Hoi An: We loved this place because of it's charm and location. For $12 US you get an AC, fan, fridge, and western bathroom (ie tub...which is a nice break from the toilet shower). Our room even had a balcony. It was clean, bright, and extremely charming, adding to that fuzzy feeling Hoi An already gives you. Rentals and services from the hotel were reasonable and fair although there was a loss in translation over train tickets (be sure to say shared cabin, not shared room, but this goes for anywhere in Vietnam). It isn't in the center of town (translation: quiet night's sleep), but a short walk will get you there and you don't mind doing it because it is so pretty.
Well my fingers are beat and I'm sure you're sick of reading! So until next time...
-M
We are finally back on some type of normal schedule. Our current HQ is at my folk's house in Tahoe and we've been here for about a week. Aside from re-teaching our bodies the difference between night and day, we've also been trolling the internet for a place to live back in Denver. I had figured we would be getting ready to leave for good at this point, but alas, a buyer's market means us renters have to put in some extra hours in the housing hunt. We'll be visiting Denver to look at places mid next week. Aside from mission-housing, I came down with a mild cold. Sweet...
The initial culture shock wasn't anything to write home about. I don't really think we were gone long enough, or the 24hrs of layovers in a comparatively tame Singapore and Hong Kong made the transition back to the west a bit easier. Either that or I'm just not fazed by anything anymore.
Before I get into the meat of this post, I'd like to give some monetary logistics out there for anyone who may be following this blog and plans on doing a similar trip. All in all, from leaving Tahoe to arriving back 43 days later the trip costed around $3K USD. Airfare was a significant chunk, taking up about 2/3 of the cost. Almost 1/3 of that was the trans-world flight. Food, lodging, activities, overland transport, drinking, and shopping cost around $1250 USD each for 6 weeks. We splurged minimally, and in comparison to US prices, didn't splurge at all. In terms of lodging, we didn't stay in complete shit holes or shared dorms (usually between $10-15), but we never paid over $30 a night either (and $30 was expensive!). Keep in mind that this route involved a significant amount of island hopping where 99% of the time a ferry was simply unavailable or completely un-economical in terms of time. If we had stuck to the more traditional overland routes (ie gone to Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Singapore, Vietnam, Peninsular Malaysia) the cost could have been lower. However, the other factor that kept us using flights is time. It takes a LOT of time to get around in some of these places, especially if roads aren't in the best condition or if it's anywhere close to monsoon season. For example, the route from Denpasar, Bali to Jogjakarta, Indonesia is roughly 370 miles. Tack on a few more if you just look at roads, so to be fair let's say 450 miles. This is about 90 miles over the distance between where I used to live in Los Angeles and where my parents live in Lake Tahoe. That journey, let's say on a snowy day where there is road trouble, can take anywhere between 10 to 12 hours. In Indonesia that distance takes about 24 hours of actual travel time (excluding overnights and 'layovers'). Keep in mind that Bali doesn't have awful roads, and Java's roads and train systems are significantly better than one would expect. The difference is the speed limit, public transport's affinity for countless stops, and never really running on any type of schedule that makes travel particularly difficult. If you have the money or are sick of 'adventure,' just book a tourist bus between places as they tend to stop less, but keep in mind you will be overcharged way over 200% of what it could cost, which, over time, will add up quickly.
So let's get on with it...here is yet another list post on the highlights...and not-my-favorite moments of the trip...after the break of course!
Top 3 Favorite Meals:
1. Singapore Crab Feast: It was tough to beat number 2...and this meal actually may spark a lot of controversy among those heavily involved in the Kuala Lumpur vs. Singapore food-off, but I had to put it first. I have NEVER IN MY LIFE seen crab claws that were nearly the size of my hand. It was awesome, R, thank your dad please! The cost of this meal is unknown, as we were treated by our friend's dad, but my guess is it would not fit a backpacker's budget but damn worth every freaking Sing Dollar. Ask anyone in Singapore where the seafood mall (yes, an entire strip mall dedicated to seafood restaurants) near the airport is and they will show you the way. Find the place that has the subtitle: 'Home of the Pepper Crab' and grab a table. Chili and Pepper crab is a must. So is pretty much anything else on the menu.
2.
Kuala Lumpur Banana Leaf: This should come as no surprise to those who know me, I swear by this stuff. It is a meal I would easily fly across the world just to eat off of a banana leaf with my hands. There are several banana leaf places all over KL and Malaysia, but the most well-known, and arguably the best, is Nirwana in the Bangsar neighborhood. Any true Malaysian will have heard of this joint. It's the best bang for your buck. Always ask for extra fried bitter gourd when the stuff comes out...these make curly fries look like amateur hour. The meal won't hurt your wallet either.
3. Seafood in Sai Kon: I hesitate to put this on here because it is a hidden gem in Hong Kong. It is a small fishing village (more like a town) where you pick your food from a tank, tell them how to cook it and enjoy it on the water in a quieter corner of Hong Kong. It's pricier, but so is Hong Kong. Shop around, as prices vary and some of the places closest to the pier seemed a bit tourist trappy. Pick a place that is occupied and seems reasonable.
Top 3 Nastiest Foods We Tried:
|
| Splashes of Red! |
1. Vietnamese Dog's Blood: This is hands down the nastiest thing I have ever tried and once, when I was little, I thought that wall insulation was cotton candy. I also mistook a water bottle full of syrup (don't ask, my family is weird) for a water bottle I had previously filled with Coke. That still doesn't even compare to the gag reflex I still get when thinking about eating this. I'll spare you the descriptive details of our the warm, semi-coagulated, irony goo and crunchy mix of peanut and bone felt going down the hatch. However, keep in mind that dog is a delicacy in Vietnam, it probably won't be fed to tourists because it's not cheap. This dish in particular is not something we ever saw on the streets. If you're still concerned, learn the word for dog meat and don't order it. Dog is also more common in the north than in the south, so keep that in mind when traveling.
2.
Baby Duck (Vietnam): Sounds like it would be good right? I mean I like duck, and although PETA might not agree, let's face it: baby animals taste better. Don't be fooled my friend! This dish is incorrectly translated. What a Vietnamese person really means when they say this is
boiled duck fetus. Yes, you get a nicely boiled duck fetus. Think large hard boiled egg that is nearly fully formed. They love this shit and I can't see why. It's supposed to be good for your health, but I can't see how beak, bones, feathers, and whatever else can really improve your health. The yolk isn't too bad, and I just tried to avoid the nasty bits when trying it, but MB got a mouth full of beak and feathers and couldn't finish. I guess one could develop a taste for this dish over time, but why?
3. Satay Cow Skin (Indonesia): Now this one came as a surprise to me. I wanted to like this snack. In fact, out of all the satay we ordered in Jogja I thought this would be my favorite (it turns out the snails and intestine are better). The skin came with its layer of fat, which was some-what detrimental. The fat is thick, slimy, and rubbery. The skin itself was also nothing to write home about, hairs were usually burned off, but sometimes not all was removed. Overall, and no offense my Halal friends, stick to pig skin.
10 'Weird' Foods We Tried that Surprised Us:
Weird is a relative term and some of these foods aren't even that weird to me, but are to the average western (American) palette. Granted, some of these are pretty...well...strange...
1. Kopi Joss (Indonesia): Now I put this one first for the sole reason that I never expected it, never knew about it, and never thought it would actually taste good. It is a simple drink of coffee (Kopi) with condensed milk and sugar all mixed up. Seems normal right? Wrong, the 'joss' is what made me turn my head sideways. The drink is poured over a hot lump of coal. Yes, that's right, I said coal. Ironically, the best place to get this drink is right by the train station. It tastes really good, although I find it hard to believe it's good for you. No you don't eat the coal, but you do get some residue and small chunks in your coffee that inevitably end up in your mouth. I don't think this will ever catch on in the states, seeing as we power our country with the stuff.
2. Fish Stomach (China): I know the Chinese use a lot of fish stomach in their dishes so it didn't surprise me too much when I tried it at a Hong Kong dim sum joint. The surprise (other than I liked it) came when I didn't recognize it. Honestly it looks nothing like a stomach, but instead more like a spongy, random Chinese mushroom of sorts. It's good and picks up flavor well.
3. The Century Egg, 1,000 year old egg (China, Singapore, Malaysia, the list goes on): The names continue. It's a Chinese classic and is almost what it says it is. It's boiled then fermented underground for some time and it comes out all green and stuff. MB likes it. I think it's a bit weird, but I'm not too keen on the texture. If it scares you alone, it often comes in things and is worth a try.
4. Intestines (everywhere): Intestines aren't too surprising, however they aren't often featured menu items in America, with the exception of sausage casings. Many famous foodies say it's a texture thing for us Americans but I am a texture freak when it comes to food (meaning I'm picky about it) especially things you have to chew forever and I found this not to be the case with all the intestines I ate. They are a little chewy, but not like overcooked steak tips or a rubber band. They are usually well seasoned, grilled, or are left to simmer in a soup all day. The end result is yummy!
5. Gudeg (Indonesia): Stewed Jackfruit. The dish itself kind of resembles vomit and you can't quite see how the fruit gets that gnarly color or how it would taste good with sambal and rice. It is awesome, amazing actually. If you go to Indo, or more specifically, the dish's home island of Java, this is a MUST TRY.
6. Su'a is Vietnamese for Jellyfish: I learned this the hard way. I saw the word and unlike the other things on this street-side vendor's stall I didn't know what it meant. When I got my meal, a fish soup with all the typical Vietnamese add-ins I immediately noticed these little noodle-like tentacles in my bowl. The lady who served me pointed and said, su'a. Then, in typical Asian fashion, proceeded to watch me eat it to see my reaction. It's pretty tasteless and is a little chewy with a sandpaper texture on one side. Not bad in a soup, but not great either. The lady at our hotel told us it is a specialty of the Nha Trang region, so if you're ever in town and curious, give it a try.
7. Duck's feet (Hong Kong): Another accidental pickup that I was curious about anyway at dim sum. It's tasty, just watch out for the bones! Lots of yummy fat and cartilage to gnaw on
8. Durian (South East Asia's favorite fruit): Durian isn't that weird to me. The fruit itself is ok, not bad but not great. Most westerners hate it. I personally prefer durian flavored things to actual durian. The texture is like a stringy custard, which is ok to deal with, but the smell is something to behold. Occasionally the Asian markets in the states get durian, but don't be fooled, this is durian for bitches. It doesn't smell; and according to durian experts, like cheese, the smellier the better. The smell doesn't bother me too much on the street, but up close and personal, it's not my favorite. MB tried durian pudding with chunks of durian in it and liked it, but I wouldn't go near his face for like 12 hours. It smells of moldy feet and a New York City gutter in the early AM of a Sunday morning. Yummy.
9. Rice Paddy Eel (Indonesia): Deep fried and left to dry this little eel doesn't retain much flavor, but it's slim, small, and black appearance isn't very eel like. It's pretty oily. I'd like to try a fresh one some day. Weird, but you could eat it.
10. Ground, Fermented Pork (Vietnam): It sounds like rancid meat, but is in fact, quite the opposite. These guys usually come deep fried and with toothpicks, kind of like a cocktail weenie. The fried crispyness is amazing and the fermentation leaves the pork fluffy and airy. It tastes just like pork, I couldn't really tell the difference. I think the name is Nam Ram (pronounced Nam Zam) but don't hold me to it. The fried awesomeness is served with a spicy sauce, making it a perfect street food snack.
7 Addicting Foods and Meals:
The following are things we just couldn't EVER get enough of...I will also include our coveted nick-names for such foods if they acquired one.
1. 100 Plus/Pocari Sweat/Revive/Gatorade AKA Crack Juice: In the hot and humid climates of SEA isotonic drinks become a lifestyle. It seemed as though ever country had it's own preferred beverage and to be honest Gatorade was our least favorite of the bunch. Another item that could easily be popular in the US. Whenever we were tired from walking around in the constant heat, or I could just not replace fluids fast enough due to my newly discovered ability to sweat constantly (sexy I know) we would just find a roadside stall, perch up on an overly small kiddy stool, and pound down some crack juice.
2. Longan/Klangkang/Not too sure what other names they go by AKA Crack Berries: See a theme here? These berries run rampant in SEA and they are delicious. Usually purchased by the kilo due to our ability to start eating them, and then never stop. Mangosteens were a close second to these.
3. Kolop Mee (Malaysian Borneo) AKA Crack Noodles: Words can't describe this one other than grilled pork with ground pork on top of noodles tossed in pork lard. I would have sent it home if I could.
4. Laksa...not just any Laksa but Sarawak Laksa (Malaysian Borneo): Why this does not exist in America is beyond me (much like no. 3 I forgot to mention). A fish based broth with loads of awesomeness, spices, ugh, just trying to write about it makes me hungary. I may just pay someone to make me laksa every day once I win the lottery. This folks, is another dish I would travel vast distances to eat on the side of the street.
5. Bahn Mi (Vietnam): I can't tell you how many different kinds or how much of this street snack we consumed. The Vietnamese take on the baguette. Usually had some type of green, pate, pork sausage or slivers of meat, and spicy fish sauce. Delicious and usually only costed around 75 cents.
6. Bahn Xeo (Vietnam): Literally meaning 'sizzle crepes' these pancakes of awesomeness are too good to pass up. Usually folded over and fried with sprouts and prawns. Eaten with fresh basil, and lettuce, wrapped in rice paper, and then dipped in a sweet and sour sauce. Be sure to wash down with a Revive if needed.
7. Local Beer and or Booze: Whenever you eat something suspect, or whenever the chaos of travel brings you to your knees you can be sure to grab whatever local alcoholic beverage is available and feel at ease. Bai Ha Noi, 333, Bia Saigon, Bierre Laurue, or the 5 cent draft or 'Fresh' beer are some of our favorites in Vietnam. Bali Hai beats Bintang any day, but in Indo your options are limited so Bintang often the best choice. Forget Tiger (which is often the same price as a Heini anyway) in Malaysia and go for some of the REAL jungle juice, Borneo's own moonshine variety Tuak. Unfortunately, you have to know someone to get any, but if you come across some, don't ask the alcohol content as it isn't really known. Beware, that stuff creeps up on you like it's nobody's business. Luak is another favorite and it is the Malaysian version of rice whiskey. Another warning: this exists all over Asia and it is referred to as Rice Wine...there is nothing Wine about this rocket fuel.
Top 3 Best Places We Stayed:
Last but not least (my hands are getting tired) is the list of the places that we absolutely loved staying at (and paid to do so). The first two I would recommend to ANYONE traveling to those areas. The hospitality we received blew us away, in fact, they are two of the best places I have ever stayed (within a budget) in all of my travels.
1. Long Hostel in Ho Chi Minh City: The Long family is absolutely amazing. Tucked away in one of the many alleys in the backpacker district I would recommend anyone of any means making it a point to stay here. The rooms are spotless and cleaned every day (including fresh towels!). The AC is on point, it's relatively quiet and the price includes a delicious home-cooked breakfast that changes every day. When you stay here, you truly feel like family. Mrs. Long is like your mom in a far away city. She will give you a great orientation on the city, what to be aware of, what cabs to take, where it is safe to eat on the street (that also gives you the same price as locals), and how to get anywhere. Not to mention she insists that if you have ANY problems whatsoever she will help you. Hangover? She'll make you a drink. Sick? She'll brew up some tea. Advice? Stories? Questions? Concerns? Mrs. Long and her family will take care of you. You also get to meet fellow travelers at breakfast time which is a perk for someone traveling in small groups or alone that wants to branch out. They even offer large water bottles for 25 cents. The cheapest we ever saw it in Vietnam.
2. Singgahsana Lodge in Kuching, Malaysian Borneo: This is one of the coolest hostels I've ever encountered. Rooms are kept clean, AC is available, even the shared bathrooms were pretty spotless (aside from rotting wood doors in the showers, but it wasn't gross, just what happens when wood stays wet). All the rooms (we stayed in two) are painted and decorated with Borneo in mind. The rooftop bar/lounge has a true backpacker feel and is the perfect place to enjoy a beer after a long day. The reception area has tons of resources and things to help out a wary traveler. What really makes this place extra special is the staff. They are friendly and helpful. They don't just treat you like a customer but they engage with you and actually make an effort to get to know you. Mac is the best and he will always give great advice on places to eat (it is Malaysia after all). The tour place downstairs, although it seems a bit pricey, is actually on par or cheaper than other tours we saw around the city. We didn't do any, except for the trip to the orangutang sanctuary and it was reasonably priced for a ride there and back as well as a ticket. Expect honest advice here and great hospitality.
3. Phuong Duong Hotel in Hoi An: We loved this place because of it's charm and location. For $12 US you get an AC, fan, fridge, and western bathroom (ie tub...which is a nice break from the toilet shower). Our room even had a balcony. It was clean, bright, and extremely charming, adding to that fuzzy feeling Hoi An already gives you. Rentals and services from the hotel were reasonable and fair although there was a loss in translation over train tickets (be sure to say shared cabin, not shared room, but this goes for anywhere in Vietnam). It isn't in the center of town (translation: quiet night's sleep), but a short walk will get you there and you don't mind doing it because it is so pretty.
Well my fingers are beat and I'm sure you're sick of reading! So until next time...
-M
We are finally back on some type of normal schedule. Our current HQ is at my folk's house in Tahoe and we've been here for about a week. Aside from re-teaching our bodies the difference between night and day, we've also been trolling the internet for a place to live back in Denver. I had figured we would be getting ready to leave for good at this point, but alas, a buyer's market means us renters have to put in some extra hours in the housing hunt. We'll be visiting Denver to look at places mid next week. Aside from mission-housing, I came down with a mild cold. Sweet...
The initial culture shock wasn't anything to write home about. I don't really think we were gone long enough, or the 24hrs of layovers in a comparatively tame Singapore and Hong Kong made the transition back to the west a bit easier. Either that or I'm just not fazed by anything anymore.
Before I get into the meat of this post, I'd like to give some monetary logistics out there for anyone who may be following this blog and plans on doing a similar trip. All in all, from leaving Tahoe to arriving back 43 days later the trip costed around $3K USD. Airfare was a significant chunk, taking up about 2/3 of the cost. Almost 1/3 of that was the trans-world flight. Food, lodging, activities, overland transport, drinking, and shopping cost around $1250 USD each for 6 weeks. We splurged minimally, and in comparison to US prices, didn't splurge at all. In terms of lodging, we didn't stay in complete shit holes or shared dorms (usually between $10-15), but we never paid over $30 a night either (and $30 was expensive!). Keep in mind that this route involved a significant amount of island hopping where 99% of the time a ferry was simply unavailable or completely un-economical in terms of time. If we had stuck to the more traditional overland routes (ie gone to Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Singapore, Vietnam, Peninsular Malaysia) the cost could have been lower. However, the other factor that kept us using flights is time. It takes a LOT of time to get around in some of these places, especially if roads aren't in the best condition or if it's anywhere close to monsoon season. For example, the route from Denpasar, Bali to Jogjakarta, Indonesia is roughly 370 miles. Tack on a few more if you just look at roads, so to be fair let's say 450 miles. This is about 90 miles over the distance between where I used to live in Los Angeles and where my parents live in Lake Tahoe. That journey, let's say on a snowy day where there is road trouble, can take anywhere between 10 to 12 hours. In Indonesia that distance takes about 24 hours of actual travel time (excluding overnights and 'layovers'). Keep in mind that Bali doesn't have awful roads, and Java's roads and train systems are significantly better than one would expect. The difference is the speed limit, public transport's affinity for countless stops, and never really running on any type of schedule that makes travel particularly difficult. If you have the money or are sick of 'adventure,' just book a tourist bus between places as they tend to stop less, but keep in mind you will be overcharged way over 200% of what it could cost, which, over time, will add up quickly.
So let's get on with it...here is yet another list post on the highlights...and not-my-favorite moments of the trip...after the break of course!
Top 3 Favorite Meals:
1. Singapore Crab Feast: It was tough to beat number 2...and this meal actually may spark a lot of controversy among those heavily involved in the Kuala Lumpur vs. Singapore food-off, but I had to put it first. I have NEVER IN MY LIFE seen crab claws that were nearly the size of my hand. It was awesome, R, thank your dad please! The cost of this meal is unknown, as we were treated by our friend's dad, but my guess is it would not fit a backpacker's budget but damn worth every freaking Sing Dollar. Ask anyone in Singapore where the seafood mall (yes, an entire strip mall dedicated to seafood restaurants) near the airport is and they will show you the way. Find the place that has the subtitle: 'Home of the Pepper Crab' and grab a table. Chili and Pepper crab is a must. So is pretty much anything else on the menu.
2.
Kuala Lumpur Banana Leaf: This should come as no surprise to those who know me, I swear by this stuff. It is a meal I would easily fly across the world just to eat off of a banana leaf with my hands. There are several banana leaf places all over KL and Malaysia, but the most well-known, and arguably the best, is Nirwana in the Bangsar neighborhood. Any true Malaysian will have heard of this joint. It's the best bang for your buck. Always ask for extra fried bitter gourd when the stuff comes out...these make curly fries look like amateur hour. The meal won't hurt your wallet either.
3. Seafood in Sai Kon: I hesitate to put this on here because it is a hidden gem in Hong Kong. It is a small fishing village (more like a town) where you pick your food from a tank, tell them how to cook it and enjoy it on the water in a quieter corner of Hong Kong. It's pricier, but so is Hong Kong. Shop around, as prices vary and some of the places closest to the pier seemed a bit tourist trappy. Pick a place that is occupied and seems reasonable.
Top 3 Nastiest Foods We Tried:
|
| Splashes of Red! |
1. Vietnamese Dog's Blood: This is hands down the nastiest thing I have ever tried and once, when I was little, I thought that wall insulation was cotton candy. I also mistook a water bottle full of syrup (don't ask, my family is weird) for a water bottle I had previously filled with Coke. That still doesn't even compare to the gag reflex I still get when thinking about eating this. I'll spare you the descriptive details of our the warm, semi-coagulated, irony goo and crunchy mix of peanut and bone felt going down the hatch. However, keep in mind that dog is a delicacy in Vietnam, it probably won't be fed to tourists because it's not cheap. This dish in particular is not something we ever saw on the streets. If you're still concerned, learn the word for dog meat and don't order it. Dog is also more common in the north than in the south, so keep that in mind when traveling.
2.
Baby Duck (Vietnam): Sounds like it would be good right? I mean I like duck, and although PETA might not agree, let's face it: baby animals taste better. Don't be fooled my friend! This dish is incorrectly translated. What a Vietnamese person really means when they say this is
boiled duck fetus. Yes, you get a nicely boiled duck fetus. Think large hard boiled egg that is nearly fully formed. They love this shit and I can't see why. It's supposed to be good for your health, but I can't see how beak, bones, feathers, and whatever else can really improve your health. The yolk isn't too bad, and I just tried to avoid the nasty bits when trying it, but MB got a mouth full of beak and feathers and couldn't finish. I guess one could develop a taste for this dish over time, but why?
3. Satay Cow Skin (Indonesia): Now this one came as a surprise to me. I wanted to like this snack. In fact, out of all the satay we ordered in Jogja I thought this would be my favorite (it turns out the snails and intestine are better). The skin came with its layer of fat, which was some-what detrimental. The fat is thick, slimy, and rubbery. The skin itself was also nothing to write home about, hairs were usually burned off, but sometimes not all was removed. Overall, and no offense my Halal friends, stick to pig skin.
10 'Weird' Foods We Tried that Surprised Us:
Weird is a relative term and some of these foods aren't even that weird to me, but are to the average western (American) palette. Granted, some of these are pretty...well...strange...
1. Kopi Joss (Indonesia): Now I put this one first for the sole reason that I never expected it, never knew about it, and never thought it would actually taste good. It is a simple drink of coffee (Kopi) with condensed milk and sugar all mixed up. Seems normal right? Wrong, the 'joss' is what made me turn my head sideways. The drink is poured over a hot lump of coal. Yes, that's right, I said coal. Ironically, the best place to get this drink is right by the train station. It tastes really good, although I find it hard to believe it's good for you. No you don't eat the coal, but you do get some residue and small chunks in your coffee that inevitably end up in your mouth. I don't think this will ever catch on in the states, seeing as we power our country with the stuff.
2. Fish Stomach (China): I know the Chinese use a lot of fish stomach in their dishes so it didn't surprise me too much when I tried it at a Hong Kong dim sum joint. The surprise (other than I liked it) came when I didn't recognize it. Honestly it looks nothing like a stomach, but instead more like a spongy, random Chinese mushroom of sorts. It's good and picks up flavor well.
3. The Century Egg, 1,000 year old egg (China, Singapore, Malaysia, the list goes on): The names continue. It's a Chinese classic and is almost what it says it is. It's boiled then fermented underground for some time and it comes out all green and stuff. MB likes it. I think it's a bit weird, but I'm not too keen on the texture. If it scares you alone, it often comes in things and is worth a try.
4. Intestines (everywhere): Intestines aren't too surprising, however they aren't often featured menu items in America, with the exception of sausage casings. Many famous foodies say it's a texture thing for us Americans but I am a texture freak when it comes to food (meaning I'm picky about it) especially things you have to chew forever and I found this not to be the case with all the intestines I ate. They are a little chewy, but not like overcooked steak tips or a rubber band. They are usually well seasoned, grilled, or are left to simmer in a soup all day. The end result is yummy!
5. Gudeg (Indonesia): Stewed Jackfruit. The dish itself kind of resembles vomit and you can't quite see how the fruit gets that gnarly color or how it would taste good with sambal and rice. It is awesome, amazing actually. If you go to Indo, or more specifically, the dish's home island of Java, this is a MUST TRY.
6. Su'a is Vietnamese for Jellyfish: I learned this the hard way. I saw the word and unlike the other things on this street-side vendor's stall I didn't know what it meant. When I got my meal, a fish soup with all the typical Vietnamese add-ins I immediately noticed these little noodle-like tentacles in my bowl. The lady who served me pointed and said, su'a. Then, in typical Asian fashion, proceeded to watch me eat it to see my reaction. It's pretty tasteless and is a little chewy with a sandpaper texture on one side. Not bad in a soup, but not great either. The lady at our hotel told us it is a specialty of the Nha Trang region, so if you're ever in town and curious, give it a try.
7. Duck's feet (Hong Kong): Another accidental pickup that I was curious about anyway at dim sum. It's tasty, just watch out for the bones! Lots of yummy fat and cartilage to gnaw on
8. Durian (South East Asia's favorite fruit): Durian isn't that weird to me. The fruit itself is ok, not bad but not great. Most westerners hate it. I personally prefer durian flavored things to actual durian. The texture is like a stringy custard, which is ok to deal with, but the smell is something to behold. Occasionally the Asian markets in the states get durian, but don't be fooled, this is durian for bitches. It doesn't smell; and according to durian experts, like cheese, the smellier the better. The smell doesn't bother me too much on the street, but up close and personal, it's not my favorite. MB tried durian pudding with chunks of durian in it and liked it, but I wouldn't go near his face for like 12 hours. It smells of moldy feet and a New York City gutter in the early AM of a Sunday morning. Yummy.
9. Rice Paddy Eel (Indonesia): Deep fried and left to dry this little eel doesn't retain much flavor, but it's slim, small, and black appearance isn't very eel like. It's pretty oily. I'd like to try a fresh one some day. Weird, but you could eat it.
10. Ground, Fermented Pork (Vietnam): It sounds like rancid meat, but is in fact, quite the opposite. These guys usually come deep fried and with toothpicks, kind of like a cocktail weenie. The fried crispyness is amazing and the fermentation leaves the pork fluffy and airy. It tastes just like pork, I couldn't really tell the difference. I think the name is Nam Ram (pronounced Nam Zam) but don't hold me to it. The fried awesomeness is served with a spicy sauce, making it a perfect street food snack.
7 Addicting Foods and Meals:
The following are things we just couldn't EVER get enough of...I will also include our coveted nick-names for such foods if they acquired one.
1. 100 Plus/Pocari Sweat/Revive/Gatorade AKA Crack Juice: In the hot and humid climates of SEA isotonic drinks become a lifestyle. It seemed as though ever country had it's own preferred beverage and to be honest Gatorade was our least favorite of the bunch. Another item that could easily be popular in the US. Whenever we were tired from walking around in the constant heat, or I could just not replace fluids fast enough due to my newly discovered ability to sweat constantly (sexy I know) we would just find a roadside stall, perch up on an overly small kiddy stool, and pound down some crack juice.
2. Longan/Klangkang/Not too sure what other names they go by AKA Crack Berries: See a theme here? These berries run rampant in SEA and they are delicious. Usually purchased by the kilo due to our ability to start eating them, and then never stop. Mangosteens were a close second to these.
3. Kolop Mee (Malaysian Borneo) AKA Crack Noodles: Words can't describe this one other than grilled pork with ground pork on top of noodles tossed in pork lard. I would have sent it home if I could.
4. Laksa...not just any Laksa but Sarawak Laksa (Malaysian Borneo): Why this does not exist in America is beyond me (much like no. 3 I forgot to mention). A fish based broth with loads of awesomeness, spices, ugh, just trying to write about it makes me hungary. I may just pay someone to make me laksa every day once I win the lottery. This folks, is another dish I would travel vast distances to eat on the side of the street.
5. Bahn Mi (Vietnam): I can't tell you how many different kinds or how much of this street snack we consumed. The Vietnamese take on the baguette. Usually had some type of green, pate, pork sausage or slivers of meat, and spicy fish sauce. Delicious and usually only costed around 75 cents.
6. Bahn Xeo (Vietnam): Literally meaning 'sizzle crepes' these pancakes of awesomeness are too good to pass up. Usually folded over and fried with sprouts and prawns. Eaten with fresh basil, and lettuce, wrapped in rice paper, and then dipped in a sweet and sour sauce. Be sure to wash down with a Revive if needed.
7. Local Beer and or Booze: Whenever you eat something suspect, or whenever the chaos of travel brings you to your knees you can be sure to grab whatever local alcoholic beverage is available and feel at ease. Bai Ha Noi, 333, Bia Saigon, Bierre Laurue, or the 5 cent draft or 'Fresh' beer are some of our favorites in Vietnam. Bali Hai beats Bintang any day, but in Indo your options are limited so Bintang often the best choice. Forget Tiger (which is often the same price as a Heini anyway) in Malaysia and go for some of the REAL jungle juice, Borneo's own moonshine variety Tuak. Unfortunately, you have to know someone to get any, but if you come across some, don't ask the alcohol content as it isn't really known. Beware, that stuff creeps up on you like it's nobody's business. Luak is another favorite and it is the Malaysian version of rice whiskey. Another warning: this exists all over Asia and it is referred to as Rice Wine...there is nothing Wine about this rocket fuel.
Top 3 Best Places We Stayed:
Last but not least (my hands are getting tired) is the list of the places that we absolutely loved staying at (and paid to do so). The first two I would recommend to ANYONE traveling to those areas. The hospitality we received blew us away, in fact, they are two of the best places I have ever stayed (within a budget) in all of my travels.
1. Long Hostel in Ho Chi Minh City: The Long family is absolutely amazing. Tucked away in one of the many alleys in the backpacker district I would recommend anyone of any means making it a point to stay here. The rooms are spotless and cleaned every day (including fresh towels!). The AC is on point, it's relatively quiet and the price includes a delicious home-cooked breakfast that changes every day. When you stay here, you truly feel like family. Mrs. Long is like your mom in a far away city. She will give you a great orientation on the city, what to be aware of, what cabs to take, where it is safe to eat on the street (that also gives you the same price as locals), and how to get anywhere. Not to mention she insists that if you have ANY problems whatsoever she will help you. Hangover? She'll make you a drink. Sick? She'll brew up some tea. Advice? Stories? Questions? Concerns? Mrs. Long and her family will take care of you. You also get to meet fellow travelers at breakfast time which is a perk for someone traveling in small groups or alone that wants to branch out. They even offer large water bottles for 25 cents. The cheapest we ever saw it in Vietnam.
2. Singgahsana Lodge in Kuching, Malaysian Borneo: This is one of the coolest hostels I've ever encountered. Rooms are kept clean, AC is available, even the shared bathrooms were pretty spotless (aside from rotting wood doors in the showers, but it wasn't gross, just what happens when wood stays wet). All the rooms (we stayed in two) are painted and decorated with Borneo in mind. The rooftop bar/lounge has a true backpacker feel and is the perfect place to enjoy a beer after a long day. The reception area has tons of resources and things to help out a wary traveler. What really makes this place extra special is the staff. They are friendly and helpful. They don't just treat you like a customer but they engage with you and actually make an effort to get to know you. Mac is the best and he will always give great advice on places to eat (it is Malaysia after all). The tour place downstairs, although it seems a bit pricey, is actually on par or cheaper than other tours we saw around the city. We didn't do any, except for the trip to the orangutang sanctuary and it was reasonably priced for a ride there and back as well as a ticket. Expect honest advice here and great hospitality.
3. Phuong Duong Hotel in Hoi An: We loved this place because of it's charm and location. For $12 US you get an AC, fan, fridge, and western bathroom (ie tub...which is a nice break from the toilet shower). Our room even had a balcony. It was clean, bright, and extremely charming, adding to that fuzzy feeling Hoi An already gives you. Rentals and services from the hotel were reasonable and fair although there was a loss in translation over train tickets (be sure to say shared cabin, not shared room, but this goes for anywhere in Vietnam). It isn't in the center of town (translation: quiet night's sleep), but a short walk will get you there and you don't mind doing it because it is so pretty.
Well my fingers are beat and I'm sure you're sick of reading! So until next time...
-M
2. Baby Duck (Vietnam): Sounds like it would be good right? I mean I like duck, and although PETA might not agree, let's face it: baby animals taste better. Don't be fooled my friend! This dish is incorrectly translated. What a Vietnamese person really means when they say this is boiled duck fetus. Yes, you get a nicely boiled duck fetus. Think large hard boiled egg that is nearly fully formed. They love this shit and I can't see why. It's supposed to be good for your health, but I can't see how beak, bones, feathers, and whatever else can really improve your health. The yolk isn't too bad, and I just tried to avoid the nasty bits when trying it, but MB got a mouth full of beak and feathers and couldn't finish. I guess one could develop a taste for this dish over time, but why?
R Dads enjoyed the company and sais anytime your in Singapore just drup R & His Dad a message :)
ReplyDeleteGonna Miss you !
See you in D.
R.
Thanks R! We miss you here in the USA. Let us know when you come back to D-town =p
ReplyDelete